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Personally, when you are using good quality products from companies like Innokin, and other manufacturers that have the reputation and commitment to safety, you don't have to use external batteries at all with your devices. When you have Temp control devices like the Cortex, or Joytech TC products with internal batteries that are long lasting, and that are tested, rated, and ment to be used with sub ohm tanks and products. These are the safest way to go. Stick to products and companies that you know and trust with a proven track record of quality, testing, safety, and extremely high standard to their customers. Then you don't have to worry about buying external batteries and charging units that are flawed. But if that is what you decide you want to do, then I encourage you to educate yourself to the best of your ability to know what you are buying and using and how you are using them. Always keep safety first.

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Capacity or mAh Rating - an approximation for how long a battery charge should last from 100% charge to when the battery will cut off. Roughly, 100 mAh = 1 hour usage with low drain applications like a flashlight.

The "best battery" is not always the one with the largest mAh rating. In most vaping applications a higher amp rating (CDR or continuous discharge rate) determines the better battery.

Amp Rating - or "continuous discharge rate" (CDR), is the maximum electrical current at which the battery can be discharged continuously before the battery will fail. This specification is set by the manufacturer, and is a standard measurement in the industry. The "pulse or burst discharge rate" is not a standard measurement and varies from one manufacturer/vendor to another making comparisons from company to company impossible, and therefore should never be relied upon.

Look for the continuous discharge rate (CDR). Burst or pulse ratings are just that, they can do a high amperage for 2-5 seconds, but more than that you begin to damage the cells. You want to choose batteries by their continuous rate, never for their burst. This is the danger of sub-ohming and not knowing the ins and outs of your batteries.

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/9-battery-basics-for-mods-the-ultimate-battery-guide.4848/

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(older) This is reprinted from the forum. Print it out and read it a couple of times, if you need to. It is a good discussion on high drain batteries versus Li-ion batteries and understanding mAh, how long a battery will last, and when and with what should you use a high drain battery.

let's say you're using a 1.5O LR atty...
at 3.7V the amp draw of that is 2.47A
an AW 2600 mAh Li-ion 18650 is capable of about 5.2A
an AW 1600mAh LiMN high drain 18650 is capable of about 16A
both are more than sufficient so it comes down to mAh for how long the battery will last between charges...

so that 2600mAh battery will give you about 1263 3 second long button presses per charge with that atty
and the 1600mAh high drain will give you about 779 3 second long button presses per charge with that atty

where LiMN versus Li-ion matters is in smaller batteries like a 14500 or a 16340
given the same atty on a 14500 size battery you'd have the same amp draw... 2.47A
now an ultrafire 900mAh 14500 battery is capable of delivering 1.3A
an AW 750mAh 14500 battery capable of 1.5A
and an AW 600mAh LiMN high drain 14500 is capable of 5.2A
so there the high drain is the only one that can meet the Amp draw... the other 2 you'll have voltage sag and overstressed battery which will lead to the battery decreasing in capacity and cycle life over time...

but that's where the turning point is between the 16340 and the 18650...

Q:
so if we're talking about using nothing but Low Resistance atty/carto high drains are the way to go for best overall performance, durability, and life...

A: not quite that simple...but yes and no
in an 18650 size.. high drain really is un needed overkill and just costs battery life between charges..

in smaller size batteries it all depends on what atty you're using...
a 1.5O atty at 3.7V is 2.47A... a standard joye 510 atty at 2.2O is 1.61A...a knock off 510 atty or a boge carto at 3.5O is 1.05A...

so like using that 14500 size for example... even a standard 510 is overstressing the regular Li-Ions a bit and the LiMN would be better but would only be close to being stressed with the knock off atty or the higher Ohm cartos...

I tend to worst case scenario it figuring that if it can handle the lowest Ohm atty or carto you're going to throw at it then it can handle everything else...
and that's the thing in the 18650 size even with the questionable QC of the *fire batteries a regular Li-ion is capable of handling the worst case scenario without having to jump to high drain at the cost of life per charge

right when we're talking just the 18650 size I really see no need for the IMR...
even with a LR atty you're not going to see an improved performance only a shorter runtime per charge...
I'm not really experienced with that 2900mAh one...it's a new chemistry and is 3.6V versus 3.7V which may not be a huge difference... I haven't done all the math on it...
I trend toward the flat top 2600mAh myself (as long as flat tops will work in your chosen mod)...

but between the 2600mAh ICR and the 1600mAh IMR ...the only difference you're going to see is a difference in runtime per charge
with a 1.5O LR atty:
2600mAh ICR..... 3789 seconds continuous runtime
1600mAh IMR.....2337 seconds continuous runtime

with a 2.3O joye 510 atty:
2600mAh ICR......5806 seconds continuous runtime
1600mAh IMR.....3564 seconds continuous runtime

then something like a 3.5O atty or carto:
2600mAh ICR.....8780 seconds
1600mAh IMR....5454 seconds

obviously you divide those continuous seconds by the average length you press the button and you'll get a # of button presses per battery charge...
Li-Ions (ICR) and the high drains (IMR) both are capable of surpassing the amp draw of whatever atty you're attaching to them... so it does come down to amount of time per charge...and as you can see from the numbers the difference in runtime between a LR atty and a standard atty get pretty dramatic..and the differences between the ICR and the IMR get more evident too..
If I were satisfied with a standard SLB 510 atty I could run it for days on that single 2600mAh ICR (8780 continuous seconds is like 48 hours strait of hitting the button every minute for 3 seconds, or 29 hours strait for 5 second button presses every minute)

even with the 1.5O LR atty on that 2600mAh ICR it's 21 hours at a 3 second button press per minute versus 12 with the IMR

Q: So this statement isn't true for the AW 18650 2900mah, then ???

And will i have voltage sag on a 18650 2900mah ??? I mean will it slowly decrease performance as I use up the battery ???

A: that statement is only half true when we are talking about 18650 batteries...
yes high drains are capable of providing more amperage...
in an 18650 battery that additional amperage is un needed....
a high drain will perform the same as a Li-Ion...LR atties and standard atties will perform no better...

(the statement is wholly true when we are talking about other battery sizes)

as long as the battery is capable of delivering more amperage than the amp draw of a given atty at a given voltage....it'll only supply the amps required by the amp draw...
so if the amp draw is 2.47A ....and one battery is capable of 5.2A and another 16A....they'll both perform the same and only deliver 2.47A...

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Hi folks, we've been seeing some failures with eGo, vGo and 016 batteries and low resistance atomizers/cartomizers.

The problem appears to me to be a compatibility issue between certain batteries and atomizers.

Low resistance atomizers are meant to simulate a higher voltage device on a 3.7 volt device but there are limitations.

Low Resistance atomizers are never meant to be used with 5 volts as the wattage and current draw will be excessive as well as the atomizers/cartomizers will not last very long due to the heat produced at 5 volts. Low resistance atomizers should never be used with a 5 volt pass-through.

We're finding also that low resistance atomizers/cartomizers are causing pre-mature failures on eGo, vGo, 016 or other mosfet driven batteries. Mosfet driven devices are designed to work with 2.5 ohm or higher atomizers/cartomizers.

As an industry we sell products but can't control how they are used. eGo, vGo, 016, regular e-cig batteries and similar devices all have short circuit protection but do not account for excessive current draw which eventually weakens the components and causes failure.

A shorted cartomizer/atomizer *should* never cause a battery to fail due to the short circuit protection of the device (including protected batteries on mods). The only other states that an atomizer or cartomizer can have is that the actual resistance is either correct or the device has burnt out which would give an infinite resistance.

Shorted atomizers are actually a very rare occurrence unless manufactured incorrectly.

What this means is that we can't blame a specific product for a failure. It's a combination of incompatible products that's causing premature failure of components.

The main problem is really lack of clear guidelines on use of the products and compatibility issues.

Unfortunately low resistance devices are here and they screw in, so people will continue to use them, sometimes with undesirable results.

Just want folks to understand that low resistance atomizers/cartomizers are not defective but are sometimes being used beyond the scope of what they were meant for.

Most devices other than battery mods do not come with LR atomizers/Cartomizers as a kit. As the failures pile up, I think we'll see more warnings/guidelines with low-resistance atomizers/cartomizers and mosfet driven batteries in the near future.

just food for thought..

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